Monthly Archives: March 2008
For the first time in a long time I became so enthralled by the experiences that I completely forgot about the 20 lbs of camera gear on my back. You want to see it, looks like you’ll have to go yourself ; )
Of Bosnia I can say little, as we spent so brief a time, really. A return trip is in order. This time, little old ladies in headscarves pushing wheelbarrows down the road, dogs chasing our car (or possibly their reflection in our car) from a stoplight for two blocks in Brcko, snow in March, beautiful back roads (Caley behind the wheel kept me from overdoing the twisties), an international border in the middle of town, tv variety shows where everyone speaks v-e-r-y- c-l-e-a-r-l-y, old men wear biker leather, and scantily dressed women dance when no music is playing… cool old men completely unphased by girl jumping out of rental car to ask for map help, crossing a border we thought was a border only to realize it wasn’t, signs that could only indicate people running away from explosions, land mines in the river (fortunately unstepped on by us. even if the signs weren’t in english they were pretty self explanatory), a border guard saying “Brcko, for tourism??”…. I can only imagine what I’ll run into given more than 24 hours
Of Serbia there is of course more.
There’s no real way to tell if the people of Serbia were so friendly because we had been expecting problems, or if they really were just some of the most amazing people on the planet. It is entirely possible that our overall reception improved via our license plate. Hungarian as it might have been, it proudly displayed as its first three letters the name of the #1 beer in Serbia : LAV.
Writing proper will be attempted next week, but for the moment I feel the need to enjoy what’s left of my vacation. Though fundage dictates a cessation of travel, budapest remains a mere train ride away, and yet is not home. Yet. ; )
For now, a few moments to last ::
All You Need is LAV, do da do da doo…
Stand up! No, just stand up!
Don’t sleep, just drink!
Ken Leeee, Tulibu dibou douchou…..
Rakija! (oof)
3 for Serbia!
The Hroners
almost hitting a buck while doing 130km/h on a road more pothole than pavement
the Italian gypsy
beers in the never-ending planted fortress
Serbia v America tennis, Serbia v America beer bags
small town disco where everyone stood talking in a circle right in the middle of the dance floor
‘Bruce Lee’’s house on wikimaps
finding our host by going to the first cafe we saw and having a random guy get in the car and take us there
finding our town by asking and praying, since our host said it was too complicated to explain
singing in fluent Serbian, with the help of a little Lav
Mr. Mafia, aka Kristijan’s Hungarian Grandfather
free hugs campaign in downtown Novi Sad, with children
t-shirts commemorating every gathering
visiting a castle where the master of the house had filled the swimming pool with milk, and kept ostriches
every one of Kristijan’s friends showing up to visit the castle, even though they’ve probably seen it a million times before
getting lost on the way out of Hungary, even when both of us knew we were going the wrong way
getting lost in Novi Sad
whispering on the street for the first hour before we realized how cool the people were and just exactly how silly we were being
and of course Backo Gradiste, because the middle of nowhere can be a beautiful place…
Ziveli to our impeccable host Kristijan, and his constant companions (and between house phone, cell, sms and messenger I really do mean constant) Szila, Bruce Lee (aka Dida, aka Vladamir), and the rest of the infamous Hroners of Backo Gradiste
sketch :: Serbia and Bosnia
while I have travelled around this country and into its neighbors, after six months I haven’t quite made it to the wednesday/saturday market 200 feet down the street.
thanks to a couchsurfer on a szentendre tour, I have remedied this situation. should I ever be in need of cheap clothing or pickled vegetables, I now know exactly where to go ; )
I leave tonight for Budapest, so that I can be up early to pick up a rental car, to pick up Caley at a bus station in the middle of nowhere, to head… to Serbia. I’ll be surfing, thus with locals, and they don’t think there should be a problem. Even given the current frustration of Serbs over the recognition of Kosovo (Croatia, Bulgaria, and now even Hungary have just joined the chorus of voices in their favor). We won’t be in Belgrade, or Kosovo for that matter, but Novi Sad should be interesting on a number of levels. Since we’ll be properly mobile (get me, I’m driving around the Balkans!!) I’ve a feeling we’ll pop into Bosnia as well. Wish me luck : )
daily dose of silliness
Spiderman is in love with the fairies. But the fairies hate spiderman. He climbs the mount everest because that’s where the fairies live. the witches turn him into a pig. spiderman didn’t know that he was a pig. the fairies were having a picnic on a marsh. they were listening to music. spiderman went there. the fairies were scared. the fairies changed him into a homework board. the students went there and wrote on the board : stupid. the end.
and now, a word from my students
- ék as an ending means they ___
ék = to split apart
I got all excited, thinking I’d found an insight into the linguistic motivations behind the cultural phenomenon of hungarians kicking each other when they’re down, until I realized that usually the -ék has no accent (-ek). thankfully, my generous friend salvaged my ego with this ::
“the ‘é’ is just an additional vocal, saving the hungarians pronounce two not matching consonant“
theory saved :: to pair unmatching hungarian bits, you must split them apart : )
linguistic migrations
wandering home after a night in budapest I found my lovely old neighbor wrangling her shrubbery. beautiful yellow flowers blanketed the dusty yard as she struggled to hold tree branches down whilst attacking them with pruning shears.
a little slow on the uptake, while wondering if I should dump my ginger ale and overnight bag before or after offering assistance, the aforementioned branch swings up as she bends down to gather trimmings and smilingly present them to me. I mime ‘really, for me’ in my polite / making sure said object is actually a gift way. she giggles and rushes into her house, returning moments later with a small pottery vase filled with blossoming sunshine. in case I didn’t entirely get the message, she returned to the house to drag out another example.
I use the opportunity presented by replacing half a dozen vases to put down my stuff, leaving my door open to avoid “I’ve accepted a gift then walked away without ado” miscommunication. hands free, I rejoin her under the tree and mime my intended offer. “jo, jo, jo!” I’ve no idea what aesthetic model she had in her mind but it was certainly vivid; she sheared twenty years off her appearance by the swift movement of her determined shears. job done we collected the remnants, which she ran off to present to another neighbor, a less mobile lovely old lady who’d been watching us quietly from a chair just inside her door.
chores done, my lovely star lady proceeded to walk me around the courtyard pointing out every single flowering blossom, no matter tiny or obscure. we got into a discussion of bulbs, and she brought out another example from what I can only imagine is a house entirely covered in flowers, this time to snag some of my nicely loamy store-bought soil with the world’s daintiest white plastic spoon. I showed her my own bulbs, still in their packaging, and she left after making me promise I’d plant them today. a smidge of dirt remains under my fingernails as I type even now.
I can’t honestly say which pleased me more – the childlike joy in sharing spring, or the well of hope produced by watching a 90 year old woman skipping.
one spring morning
late one night above the lights of buda, my friend posed a question that a number of hungarians seem to ponder, belying a unique ability to look directly at their own geographically influenced patterns of thought as though they were not indeed a part therein. to make comparisons, notice contradictions, and generally be more selfculturally aware than just about anyone I’ve ever known.
we all bear evidence of our civilizations. on occasion we can even catch a glimpse of our selves out of the corner of an eye. others still compare general cultural traits (loud americans…). but it’s a rare westerner indeed who routinely checks his own thought process for traces of ingrained perspectives.
a brilliantly dry wit, the number one justification of my draw to hungary. this new sort of question is undoubtably number two.





